Skin Research and Technology · 4 authors, 1 centre
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This split-face study in 21 women compared 10% gluconolactone chemical peel combined with either oxybrasion or microneedling. Both combinations significantly increased skin hydration and decreased sebum, pH, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), with no statistically significant differences between the two techniques. The findings suggest that either combination is effective for strengthening the hydrolipid barrier and improving skin hydration.
**Background:** Combination treatments in cosmetology aim to enhance the effects of chemical peels. Gluconolactone, a polyhydroxy acid, increases hydration, has antiacne and antiaging properties, and forms a protective film reducing TEWL. Oxybrasion (water-oxygen microdermabrasion) exfoliates superficially and improves penetration of active substances, while microneedling creates microchannels to enhance delivery. This study compared the two combination approaches.
**Methods:** Twenty-one Caucasian women (39–62 years, phototype II–III) received three split-face treatments at 1-week intervals. Oxybrasion (Criss Hydroxy device, 4.5–5.5 bar, 3 passes) was applied to the right side; microneedling (Derma N-Skin Pen, 18 needles, 0.15 mm depth) to the left side. A 10% gluconolactone solution (pH 2.3, CHANTARELLE) was then applied to the entire face. Skin parameters were measured using Courage & Khazaka 580 probes (Corneometer CM 825, Sebumeter SM 815, pH-Meter PH 905, Tewameter TM 300) at four sites (forehead, cheek, nose, eye area) before the first and third treatments and 2 weeks after the last treatment. Measurements followed EEMCO guidelines under controlled conditions (24–26°C, 33–41% humidity). Statistical analysis used IBM SPSS 27 with Friedman ANOVA and Wilcoxon tests (significance level 0.05).
**Key Results:** For both sides, hydration increased significantly at all sites (all p < 0.001). On the microneedling side, forehead hydration rose from mean 50.43 (measurement 1) to 61.92 (measurement 3); on the oxybrasion side, from 51.35 to 60.08. Sebum decreased significantly at all sites (all p < 0.001). On the microneedling side, forehead sebum dropped from 81.52 to 64.43; on the oxybrasion side, from 75.57 to 56.81. pH decreased significantly at all sites (all p < 0.001). On the microneedling side, forehead pH fell from 5.92 to 5.40; on the oxybrasion side, from 5.84 to 5.38. TEWL decreased significantly at all measured sites (all p < 0.001). On the microneedling side, forehead TEWL dropped from 17.94 to 13.80; on the oxybrasion side, from 17.72 to 13.59. The only statistically significant difference between treatments was greater TEWL reduction on the microneedling side for the eye area (p < 0.05). Photographic documentation showed improvement in skin texture, reduction of inflammatory changes, acne lesions, and fine wrinkles.
**Clinical Implications:** Both combination treatments (gluconolactone with oxybrasion or microneedling) effectively improve skin hydration, reduce sebum, lower pH, and decrease TEWL, indicating strengthening of the hydrolipid barrier. The lack of significant differences between techniques suggests clinicians can choose based on patient preference, skin type, and availability. The noninvasive nature and safety profile make these combinations suitable for various skin types. Limitations include the small sample size (n=21), lack of randomization, and absence of a control group receiving gluconolactone alone.